FO side of the Panel A320 Desktop is now available in option !
It functions with only one external computer and can be connected easily with only 4 cables ! 3 USB, 1 network cable RJ-45 and 2 sectors cables 220v/(110v).
Hack your existing Raspberry Pi case to fit the layout of your new Raspberry Pi 4, with this handy “How to hack your existing Raspberry Pi case to fit the layout of your new Raspberry Pi 4” video!
Hack your existing official Raspberry Pi case to fit the new Raspberry Pi 4, or treat yourself to the new official Raspberry Pi 4 case. The decision is yours!
How to hack your official Raspberry Pi case
Take your old Raspberry Pi out of its case.
Spend a little time reminiscing about all the fun times you had together.
Reassure your old Raspberry Pi that this isn’t the end, and that it’ll always have a special place in your heart.
Remember that one particular time – you know the one; wipe a loving tear from your eye.
Your old Raspberry Pi loves you. It’s always been there for you. Why are you doing this?
Look at the case. Look at it. Look how well it fits your old Raspberry Pi. Those fine, smooth edges; that perfect white and red combination. The three of you – this case, your old Raspberry Pi, and you – you make such a perfect team. You’re brilliant.
Look at your new Raspberry Pi 4. Yes, it’s new, and faster, and stronger, but this isn’t about all that. This is about all you’ve gone through with your old Raspberry Pi. You’re just not ready to say goodbye. Not yet.
Put your buddy, the old Raspberry Pi, back in its case and set it aside. There are still projects you can work on together; this is not the end. No, not at all.
In fact, why do you keep calling it your old Raspberry Pi? There’s nothing old about it. It still works; it still does the job. Sure, your Raspberry Pi 4 can do things that this one can’t, and you’re looking forward to trying them out, but that doesn’t make this one redundant. Heck, if we went around replacing older models with newer ones all the time, Grandma would be 24 years old and you’d not get any of her amazing Sunday dinners, and you do love her honey-glazed parsnips.
Turn to your new Raspberry Pi 4 and introduce yourself. It’s not its fault that you’re having a temporary crisis. It hasn’t done anything wrong. So take some time to really get to know your new friend.
New friendships take time, and fresh beginnings, dare we say it…deserve new cases.
Locate your nearest Raspberry Pi Approved Reseller and purchase the new Raspberry Pi 4 case, designed especially to make your new Raspberry Pi comfortable and secure.
Reflect that this small purchase of a new case will support the charitable work of the Raspberry Pi Foundation. Enjoy a little warm glow inside. You did good today.
Upgrade a sewing machine into an automatic embroidery rig
Arduino Team — November 26th, 2018
A needle and thread is extremely useful if you need to fasten a few pieces of fabric or sew on a button, and a sewing machine takes things up several notches in speed an accuracy. This venerable machine, however, can now be enhanced with a trio of stepper motors under Arduino Uno GRBL control to take things to an entirely new level.
The “Self-Made Embroidery Machine” employs a setup very similar to a 3D printer or CNC router. Two steppers move the fabric around, while a third actuates the needle. This allows the user to program in decorative shapes and patterns as shown in the video below, and the build process is well documented if you’d like to create your own!
Sewing machine part is any old or new sewing machine. Only change for original is stepper motor with synchronised pulley system (chain/belt drive) and more embroidery friendly presser foot. It is recommended to use older sewing machine, way more convenient to mount stepper motor to cast iron and prices are relatively cheap.
XY movement consists mainly 3D printed parts, 12 pcs and similar parts known from self build 3D printers. Both axes use GT2 belts, NEMA 17 steppers and both directions are fully scalable.
Synchronous movement comes from Arduino powered GRBL G-code interpreter, it is mouthful, but basically machine moves using G-code send to Arduino. It is not that complicated and it is only carrier like any other one when going from system to another one.
Now we have movement and code, but how to make nice shapes and export to G-code. It is nothing to do with medieval sorcery, it is a matter of downloading Inkscape and extension called Inkstitch.
Help and examples how to use Inkstitch extension can be found address above. End result should be really close to hobby level embroidery machines, just slower speed. After all, embroidery machine is nothing more than overgrown sewing machine.
When we purchased our home last year, we started out using one of our three bedrooms as a home office. Our plans were to eventually convert the unused formal living space in the front of the house to a home office down the road, as we have a bigger family room in the back of the house that we use as our primary living space. When we found out we were going to have a baby, I figured this would be a good time to tackle this project.
The space I ended up framing is a few inches over 8 feet wide and almost 12 feet deep. This ended up being the ideal size for us to fit two large 8 feet by 30-inch custom desks and still leave plenty of room for the dining area next to it. We already had an air conditioning/heating vent in the space, so I thankfully did not have to do any ductwork.
The full project took me a little over 4 months to complete, mostly doing work in weekends and evenings. In between, I tackled other projects like building a patio dining set and a greenhouse, so I definitely took my time with it.
Follow my full journey in the images below. Feel free to leave a comment or reach out if you have any questions and I will do my best to answer them. I’ve also answered a lot of questions already on Reddit, so be sure to check that out as well.
I used blue painters tape to mark off the space to get a sense of the size. The ceilings are 9.5 feet, but notice the slope in the front (that turned out to be an interesting challenge)
Since I’ve never done anything like this before, I took my time to model out everything in Autodesk Fusion 360. This was incredibly useful, as I knew all measurements beforehand
I bought 2×4 lumber at a local lumberyard in 8, 10, and 14 foot sizes. I also purchased the plywood I needed for the desks and upper cabinets (the latter which I still have to build)
After cutting everything on my new miter saw, I laid out the large wall on the floor before facing my fears and use a framing nailer to fasten it all
This is where math comes in. Thanks to the Pythagorean theorem, I couldn’t get the wall upright after framing. So I took off the top plate and clamped it off to the side and hoisted the wall up
Getting the wall in place was quite a chore, and my friendly neighbor helped me out. Took a lot of brute force, but we got it in place eventually and then squared it up
The smaller wall was much more manageable in size, but the sloped ceiling took a lot of measurements and trial/error to get perfect
After the framing, I bought 8 sheets of drywall at a local lumber yard (of which I only needed 5) and cut it up before screwing it in place
Drywall was another first for me, so I probably cut it into smaller pieces than I should have
After recutting the top piece at the sloped ceiling to go the full height, everything looked very clean…
…But then the drywall mudding began and everything turned into a huge mess again. A friend helped out with the taping and first layer, which is probably why it looks decent in the end
Drywall was definitely my least favorite part of this project. A lot of sanding and layering on the mud made a huge mess. Lesson learned for next time: cover the floor first
This is after a few days and 4 layers. Everything was smooth and square
The little wall was a bit more of a challenge to mud completely smooth, as the existing wall wasn’t 100% square to the exterior wall. I had to compensate with more mud. Next up, the door in the background!
Installing the door was quite easy, except for pushing it in place. We went with 8 foot high french doors, which are super heavy
The drywall cleaned up nicely with just some warm water and rags. Starting to look more and more like a room!
Before painting, I actually took the time to lay down plastic drop cloth. This is after the coat of primer
Two coats of white paint later, everything was neat again. It turns out we didn’t have any of the existing ceiling paint, so I improvised with something that was close enough
I looked at the existing trim and figured it was simple to recreate. A quick trip to the hardware store and some standard MDF trim later, I got everything to match
Now that the wall is done, on to the desks. As per the design, I made 3 cabinets underneath each desk out of 3/4 inch plywood
Here you can see all 6 cabinets. The one without the middle shelf is the cabinet for my full tower PC
For the top, I laminated a 3/4 inch sheet of walnut plywood to a cheaper one to create a 1-1/2 inch sturdy desk top
I applied iron-on walnut edge banding to hide the plywood edges. The notches in each top are so the curtains can hang down without bending around the desk top
I applied 4 coats of satin polyurethane to the tops (1 coat on the bottom) with some light sanding in between each coat for a super smooth and durable finish
I primed and painted the cabinets white. I used an enamel paint, which was self-leveling. The end result is a very smooth and hard surface, but it took about a week to fully cure
Here is my wife’s desk installed. I retro-fitted some toe-kicks underneath to raise her desk a bit, as the initial height was too low for her
At this point we started moving everything down. One problem remained: not being able to close off the space
I cut some 3/4 by 1/2 inch strips from left over 2x4s to become the window trim. Here you see the difference between big-box 2×4 (right) and the quality 2×4 from the lumber yard
After cutting everything to length and mitering the corners, everything was ready for paint (after more sanding)
I bought an HVLP sprayer, as I had more things to spray for the nursery in the end. This saved a lot of time and got a very smooth coat on everything. Here you see the primer on the framing strips
I glued and nailed in the strips on 3 sides and then cut the 4th strip to exact length to fit in snugly
Here you see the 4th strip installed, and nail holes filled with wood putty
And after the 1/4 inch glass panes were in, this project was a wrap! My wife just had her baby shower and I’m excited about finishing this before the baby arrives
There’s a lot of light from the big window in the home office and all the interior windows and french doors really let that light through to the dining space
I added RGB LED strips to the back of each desk for some subtle lighting while in the office
Here’s how it looks
Here you can see my wife’s smaller PC allowing for more storage. I also swapped the chair casters with rollerblade style rubber ones to preserve the floor
While the walls are not insulated, the thick glass and strips underneath the doors isolate the room plenty for our purposes
Ta-da!
Thanks for following along! Feel free to ask questions or leave other comments!
One way a filmmaker or photographer can prove they’re creative is making something wonderful with a low budget. We have already featured some photographers who tackled this subject, but now a collective of people are making the same point using video. Recently, one Chinese studio shared exclusive behind-the-scenes footage of their food ads, revealing just how far a few sharp minds can go. For example, they’ve made a TV-worthy shot of a burger using only a lighter and some gas. Scroll down to check out the footage that has already amassed over 2 million views on Facebook and tells us what you think about it in the comments.
My name is Terry. I like to make things (constantly). Here are some of the things I have made over the years.
I just make these things for fun, no other reason. I am interested in all the sciences, and sometimes incorporate those interests into my work. An example of this would be the robotic humanoid I’m trying to build. He unintentionally looks way creepier than intended! Anyway, hope you like the other things made.
This is a cloud lamp I made. When it’s turned on it flashes and plays a recording of a thunder storm
Here’s a video of it in action:
This is David, and a prototype hand I’m working on for him
David checking out his new hand… I think he liked it:
David at an early stage
This was how I intended David to look originally. I need to get his eye lids added
I made a breakfast machine one too, here’s how it works:
And a beer delivery system:
This is the head of an automaton magician I’ve been building for aaaaaages. I’ve broked it more times than I care to mention
His inner workings
The beginning of his cape
A video of him moving about. This was the first “human” automaton I build, so his movements are a bit off. I like how creepy it is though:
This little dude uses ultrasound to see! He is fully autonomous and drives about my house avoid all my other crap
This is my Van De Graaf generator that I built for static voltage experiments
If conditions are right, I can get some excellent sparks off it. I still need to measure, but it will be in the high thousands, because it hurts!
This was a simple owl automaton I made for my niece
And a video of it working if you’re interested:
An autonomous robot I built from stuff from Poundland
Bucket-bot driving about my attic/lab in action:
This is Assisto-Bot I made him for various different things… he’s mostly impractical though:
This was the sci-fi cannon. It fired flash cotton. Completely harmless, but looked really cool. It makes a cool sound charging up because of the old camera capacitor I used to build it
This a short gif of a Butane Boomer I made. I liked how the flame moved round the tube
Before proposing to his girlfriend, Dan Ko decided that everything had to be perfect, including the engagement ring. So, he truly personalized his proposal by 3D modeling and printing a ring which he knew his future wife would love.
For his wedding back in March 2016, Dan Ko, a self-proclaimed “tech enthusiast and 3D printing expert” came up with a few romantic and highly personalized touches.
Around the time of the wedding, Ko wrote a how to guide for 3D printing porcelain vases which adorned the tables. However, he is now divulging how he created the perfect engagement ring for his partner, Jen.
Ko explains that designing a ring is actually more time-intensive than it is difficult. He explains that the process took four months to create a design he was happy with. He also had the help of an experienced Shapeways designer. Of course, ring shopping could take less time than this but would the result be as personal?
He explains: “I wanted my wedding to have custom touches, to be meaningful for my family and friends and not just a commercialized, cookie cutter event. I could have gone the DIY route, but why pull out the hammer and saw when I could simply design something, upload the file and have it made professionally instead?”
Reducing Costs but Increasing Sentimental Value
Ko adds that his personalized ring actually cost 50% less than if he’d bought a major brand ring from a retailer. Even with the costs of multiple prototypes and jeweler fees, he still managed to save.
To design the ring, Ko first found an experienced 3D designer who could help him out. He reached out to Scott Denton, a New-York based designer who “made the process easy”.
He explains that a Pinterest board created by Jen made the designing process a lot easier too. Her preferred aesthetic was clean simple lines with antique engraved elements. As Jen is a dentist, Ko knew he needed to design a ring which would be comfortable during her working day as she’s constantly taking gloves on and off.
One of the more expensive processes of designing the ring was hiring an experienced jeweler who would ensure the stone was set properly. Ko then headed to New York City’s diamond district to find the perfect stone. He found the right diamond at a wholesale.
Ko and Denton then went back and forth to come up with a sketch and finally a 3D file which would be right for Jen. When the file was ready, they prototyped the ring in Fine Detail Plastic (FDP). By prototyping the ring, they found a few design aspects which needed to be changed but it wasn’t long before they were printing in platinum and having the jeweler set the stone.
The final touches for the proposal were renting and decorating a lounge, inviting friends and family and getting down on one knee. Ko explains that he was nervous about the size of the ring but, luckily, it was a perfect fit and Jen loved it. She also said yes!
Combine function and form with this 7-segment LED clock, designed by Kansas-based maker Leonard Lee. It reliably delivers accurate time — down to the second — while at the same time adding a little light to your life.
How many times have you squinted across a room trying to read the time off a cheap dollar store clock? Squash that humiliating feeling forever with this stylish 7-segment LED clock from Thingiverse user leonardlee. Apart from the electronics, it’s completely made from easy-to-assemble 3D printed parts. All you need is a little time. (And a little money…)
In addition to looking great, this timeless (timeful?) piece has a number of fascinating features. Its automatic abilities include NTP time syncing, time zone detection, and daylight savings adjustment. It can also be assembled with or without the 7-segment displays for seconds.
You can mount the 7-segment LED clock on the wall using the two holes in the back. Otherwise, if you prefer that it rest on a desk or table, attach the provided 3D printable stands.
7-Segment LED Clock: What You Need
In order to build leonardlee’s clock, you’ll need to 3D print eight parts, plus the stand. All nine STL files are available for download for free on Thingiverse. As whole segments light up by diffusing single-point LED light through thin translucent plastic, it’s probably best to print with the recommended white PLA.
Below are the non-printed components needed for the 7-segment LED clock, which should together cost around $30:
The 3D printed pieces fit together intuitively, with only the electronics adding a bit of complexity. Never fear, though: leonardlee provides a thorough set of assembly instructions (in the “Post-Printing” section, below “Supplies”) as well as a handy step-by-step GIF.
The first step is to prepare the software. This involves uploading code to the D1 Mini using the Arduino IDE, which will likely require you to integrate the ESP8266 boards and install the CH340G driver. (Click here for instruction from Wemos Electronics.)
Up next we have some soldering to do. That is, after fastening together the 3D printed back pieces using the aforementioned nuts and screws. Begin by soldering the level shifting chip to the clock shield PCB. Then, solder the included 8-pin female headers of the D1 Mini as well as the power and LED wires to the clock shield PCB.
You can now slide the clock shield PCB onto the pegs of 3D printed back_hour_minute piece. And then we’re soldering again! Start with connecting the power barrel connector to the power wires, keeping in mind the polarity of your power supply. Then move on to the LED wires, which need to be soldered to the single LEDs that will be positioned in the colon of the back_hour_minute piece. Make sure the LEDs are properly aligned using the arrows on the strip.
The next step is to attach the D1 Mini to the PCB, sliding its male pins into the PCB’s female header. Periodic testing of the circuit should now be possible.
The remaining soldering involves connecting the LEDs through the wires guides around the digits. This will result in two strips of LEDs, one going to the left of the controller (for the hours), and one going to the right (for the minutes and seconds).
Finally, cover all segments and gaps with the corresponding 3D printed pieces and, unless you’re planning to mount the clock on the wall, attach the stands. Let there be light!
How’s the local weather forecast looking this weekend? Why not 3D print your own micro flying wing to soar beyond the kites and frisbees at the park. Designed by Thingiverse user drcameron, this RC wing attachment will have you soaring through blue skies with style.
With projects like OpenRC taking the 3D printing community by storm, we’re seeing more and more examples of how this technology can be used to create and upgrade remote-controlled vehicles. And it’s no surprise why makers are fawning over these types of projects; they’re fun, functional and showcase the potential that even desktop 3D printing has for manufacturing useful things.
And so, for today’s Weekend Project, we’ll be taking a look at a 3D printed V911 Micro Flying Wing. Designed by Thingiverse user drcameron, his project was recently featured on the front page of the popular 3D model repository. Using a few various parts from an old RC plane, you can add these 3D printed wings and take flight. The ribbed wing design has already been tried and tested by the designer, and it proved to be a soaring success.
Let’s take a quick look at what you need to make your own high-flying RC plane.
3D Printed Micro Flying Wing: What You Need
The STL files for the wings are freely available on Thingiverse. You can download them here. Other than that, here are the components you need to put this project into the air.
Of course, if you have some RC plane parts laying around the garage, you might be able to source these components for this project. Otherwise, you can either find the individual parts above or buy an old plane and obtain what you need from there.
3D Printed Micro Flying Wing: Putting it Together
The 3D printing process is quite easy, as the wings come in two separate parts and snap directly together. It might take some angling on your slicer in order to fit the model on your 3D printer’s bed, but the project creator was able to print it on a Monoprice Maker Select V2, which has a build volume of 200 x 200 x 180 mm. The teacher and maker also scaled down this model of a control horn by 75 percent, making it the perfect fit for the micro wings.
The wings were printed with two walls and zero top and bottom layers. Using Cura, drcameron used the grid pattern to create the lightweight inner structure. He also notes that both wings should be oriented the same way to ensure that the grid pattern is uniform across both prints.
After the printing process is complete, you should wrap the wings in packing tape and add foam to the tips of the winglets. He then attached the receiver brick and motor using hot glue. Although the maker doesn’t go into the electronics assembly in his Thingiverse post, he does share a link to this forum for those unfamiliar with this process.
All in all, this is a great project to show everyone just why 3D printing is so useful, and for parents looking to introduce a bit of maker ingenuity to their children. You can play around and customize this project to fit your style, and become the most popular person at the park once you start flying this RC plane around.
Want a 3D printing project that will hone your design and circuitry skills, all while giving you a butterfly ring that flutters with light? Then break out of that cocoon and build yourself this 3D printed NeoPixel butterfly ring.
When used as a standalone technology, 3D printing is capable of producing some amazing trinkets, jewelry and other wearable accessories. But when fused with electronics, the possibilities of what you can make grows exponentially. One common and easy-to-learn path you can take on your maker quest is with Arduino circuit boards and LED lights.
But for the novice, it might seem like a daunting task to learn soldering circuitry and 3D design. In reality, it’s less demanding than you might expect, and this recent Instructables project will help you learn all the nitty gritty details. By the time you finish this lesson, you’ll have yourself 3D printed NeoPixel butterfly ring that will brighten up your weekend!
Let’s take a closer look at this informative and fun project.
3D Printed NeoPixel Butterfly Ring: What You Need?
If you want to create your own 3D printed butterfly ring, you’ll need to acquire some electronic components and tools. Here’s what you need:
3D Printed NeoPixel Butterfly Ring: Putting it Together
If you want to design your own butterfly, the circuits Instructables post shares comprehensive steps on how to design both the ring and LED holder on TinkerCAD. It also shows you how to create a circuit with an Arduino Uno and NeoPixel Ring, how to start coding with the NeoPixel library and programming your LED to go into rainbow mode. For time’s sake, we’ll jump straight into the 3D printing process, but if you’re interested in learning how to do everything from scratch, start from the top of the project’s Instructables page.
The NeoPixel Butterfly Ring only requires two 3D printed parts: the butterfly and the NeoPixel holder. Both are 3D printed with 100 percent infill, the holder with supports. If you want to maximize the light the shines through the butterfly, look into utilizing translucent or white PLA filament.
The next step is to put together the circuit and 3D printed holder, snuggly sandwiching the holder on top of the Arduino Uno. With the PWR and GND pins of the NeoPixel Ring facing downward, situate it around the 3D printed holder close to the “+” and “-” indicators.
If you look at the 3D printed holder, you’ll notice three holes for you to connect the NeoPixel ring to Arduino. Do the following: “Insert one end of a red jumper wire into the + hole of the holder. Make sure it’s fully inserted so that it makes a connection with the Arduino Uno 5V pin. Insert one end of a black jumper wire into the – hole of the holder. Make sure it’s fully inserted so that it makes a connection with the GND (Ground) pin of the Arduino.”
After stripping the wire ends, it’s finally time to solder the connections, each step is laid out in detail on the Instructables page. Finally, program the Arduino with the rainbow code and attach the butterfly! There you have it, time to let your finger flutter!
This project is multi-faceted depending on your experience level and free time. You can use the tutorials to learn more about using TinkerCAD and Arduino, or, you can just 3D print and solder away until you have a custom piece of jewelry. Happy tinkering!
Maker and Instructables regular Greg Zumwalt has created the 3D printed Marblevator Mini, a marble machine with a high speed loop mechanism that can handle over 324,000 marble runs per day. Check out how you can build this jaw-dropping project yourself!
Most of us can remember the childhood joy that arose when playing with marbles, a simplistic and sometimes colorful spherical toy that you could just watch roll around for hours. Outside of being a popular knickknack for kids, marbles can also be used to demonstrate the laws of physics.
You’ve probably seen or at least heard of a marble machine, which is a ball-run contraption that sends the marble through loops and tunnels until it reaches the end, where it is elevated back up to start the rollercoaster ride over again. And get this… you can easily 3D print your own apparatus to send marbles into this cosmic loop.
Greg Zumwalt, a retired software company owner and current full-time maker, recently shared the 3D printed Marblevator Mini, a marble machine capable of reaching seriously high speeds. In fact, it’s the fastest version that Zumwalt has ever created (and he’s made a few), capable of 324,000 marble runs in a single day. He conducted a stress test for over 29 hours without losing a single marble, all while looping 10 marbles at a time.
We previously covered one of the maker’s recent project, an incredible 3D printed mechanical hummingbird. Now, we’ll dig into his latest concoction: the Marblevator Mini.
3D Printed Marblevator Mini Machine: What You Need
If you want to build your own 3D printed Marblevator Mini, you’ll need to get the STL files from Greg Zumwalt’s Instructables post. There are only three individual models to 3D print. Aside from your 3D printer and some different shades of filament, there’s a few other supplies you need to pick up (though some of them are optional).
3D Printed Marblevator Mini Machine: Putting it Together
Before getting into the assembly process, you’ll need to 3D print the “Base.stl” and “Auger.stl” (at .15mm layer height, 20 percent infill, no supports) and the “Track.stl” (.15mm layer height, 20 percent infill, with support material). Once the three parts are printed, test fit and sand down the parts to ensure smooth movement and a snug fit.
Next, solder the wires from the power supply to the motor and make sure it turns clockwise when looked at from the motor shaft end. If you’re using some of the optional components, such as the coaxial power jack, you’ll have a bit more soldering to do, but Zumwalt lays out those steps in his Instructables post.
To assemble the Marblevator Mini Machine, insert the servo motor into the “Base.stl” model, followed by the mounting the “Track.stl” and finally the “Auger.stl” onto the motor shaft. Again, make sure that everything fits tightly, especially the track, as this will have an impact on the performance of your marble machine.
Finally, it’s time to test out this high-speed looping mechanism. Place the 8mm ball bearing on the top of the track and let it roll. At this point, it should traverse smoothly down the track without jumping or falling short of the auger. If not, you’ll probably need to do a bit more sanding and filing, but that’s a small price to pay to obtain the power of physics!
Want to capture all 360 degrees of an object with your camera? Adafruit has recently shared a 3D printing project that shows you how to create an inexpensive turntable made for photographers and videographers.
As anyone in the photography or film world knows, the many different types of production equipment that are available can be incredulously expensive. Even something as simple as a turntable (no, not the kind you spin your father’s old records on) can be quite costly for aspiring photographers or even a professional on a budget.
A photography turntable is a flat platform that has one job: spinning. In doing so, it provides a 360 degree view of whatever object happens to be stationed upon it at the time. This piece of equipment is oftentimes used for product photography, adding motion to video clips, as well as for capturing intricate details and propping up an object to improve lighting.
There’s no doubt that this tool is helpful, but it can be difficult for a frugal photographer to justify spending $100+ on a platform that simply spins around. Thankfully, the open source hardware pioneers at Adafruit have recently shared a DIY turntable that you can create with 3D printing and various electronic components.
This turntable platform has an adjustable rotation speed, clockwise and counterclockwise rotation, and interchangeable platforms that you can 3D print. Let’s take a look at what you need to build your own 3D printed motorized turntable for photography and videography purposes.
3D Printed Motorized Turntable: What do you Need?
As this project was featured on Adafruit, most of the non-3D printed supplies you’ll need can be obtained directly from them. The STL files for the turntable and base are available on Thingiverse. Aside from your 3D printer and filament, here’s what else you’ll need to build your own 3D printed motorized turntable:
Without including the 3D printing filament that you’ll end up using for this project, all of the required electronics and components will only cost you around $35. Now that’s a bargain!
3D Printed Motorized Turntable: Putting it Together
If you’re relatively inexperienced with electronics, this project is actually the perfect place to start learn some soldering skills. The circuitry for the turntable is quite easy to follow, using just five components. The main source here is the Itsy Bitsy board, which runs CircuitPython code to control the mechanics of the turntables and supply power via USB or battery.
You’ll have to solder a LiPo battery to the board, and also mount the potentiometer, which controls the rotation speed; the SPDT switch controls, which determines whether the turntable spins clockwise or counterclockwise; and the servo motor, which keeps things spinning along. Check out the circuit schematic below.
Once the electronics are assembled, the next step is to run the CircuitPython code on the Itsy Bitsy M0 board. You can find the script and further programming instructions on the Adafruit website.
There’s only two primary parts that you’ll need to 3D print: the electronics enclosure and the turntable platform. The 3D models are designed to make the assembly process easy, equipped with a snap-fit back to allow access to the electronics, as well as cutouts for both the USB and servo motor.
According to Liz Clark, the author behind this project, she 3D printed the parts at a 0.2 layer height with 20 percent infill. The maker also suggests using supports to ensure that the cutouts have accurate dimensions. She also points out that the 3D models can be easily modified or resized on Fusion360 to fit your needs.
The final step is putting it all together, starting off with soldering the electronics. Once the soldering process is completed, Clark explains how to properly wire the components into the 3D printed enclosure, beginning with mounting the USB micro B extension into the cutouts and finishing up with the servo. We won’t go into every detailed step here, so if you’re planning on taking this project for a “spin”, be sure to check out the Adafruit project page for the entire play-by-play.
Once you complete the assembly process and place the 3D printed turntable platform on top of the servo, you’ll have your very own 3D printed motorized turntable. Now you can take 360 degree photos or videos of your 3D prints, products, or anything else that manages to fit on this affordable, yet highly capable, DIY turntable!
Want to spend the summer days sailing the seven seas and soaking up the sun? Thingiverse user UniversalMaker shows us how to build a 3D printed Open RC Boat equipped with solar panels.
With summertime approaching and warm weather abound, it’s the perfect time to head over to your local body of water to lounge out, swim, and maybe even sail a remote controlled boat?
A German maker and Thingiverse user who goes by the name of UniversalMaker has revealed the Open RC Boat. The latest version is equipped with solar panels, made with 3D printed hull and electronics from Wavebreaker RC boat.
Started in 2012, the OpenRC Project has already taken the 3D printing world by storm, and was recently used to create a RC Formula 1 car by renowned maker Daniel Norée. Now, you can take this open source project to the high seas, soaking up energy from the sun while you cruise around with your RC boat.
If you want to build your own Open RC Boat with solar panels, here’s what else you’ll need:
Solar-Powered Open RC Boat: Putting it Together
The assembly process for the Open RC boat is surprisingly easy. First, use the customizer to select the parts you need. Print all of the parts, and then glue the main hull together and drill holes through the mounting plates so you can insert m3 screws.
Once you have the 3D printed hull glued together, it’s time to take the electronics out of a toy boat. Check out the photo below to see which components are used and where they are placed.
After the boat and electronics are assembled, use clear spray paint to make everything watertight, eliminating the porosity that FDM printing tends to create.
If you want to add the solar upgrade to the Open RC Boat, which is optional, there are some other parts you’ll need to 3D print. These 3D printed holders will be used to mount the solar panel to the boat.
Check out UniversalMaker’s YouTube video below for more detailed assembly instructions. He also shares some important information tips on the project’s Thingiverse page, so be sure to check that out while you’re downloading the STL files.
Have an ancient DVD or CD drive collecting dust in your garage? You can use your 3D printer and a recycled lens to create an e-waste pocket microscope.
For those of us living in the modern world, it’s hard to imagine surviving without the electronics that have become such an integral part of our lives. However, as new and innovative devices replace the electronics of yesteryear, e-waste is quickly piling up across the world.
This is why so many environmentally-conscious makers prefer to salvage useful components from old computers, CD/DVD players, and so on.
One maker, who is aptly named “The-PC-Bloke”, recently shared an incredibly project on Instructables that shows how to make a pocket-sized microscope with your 3D printer and e-waste. The maker had a few goals he wanted to satisfy with this project, including sourcing parts from e-waste, creating something useful, portable, and child-friendly, while also keeping things simple.
His solution was to take the lens from an old CD drive and use 3D printing to transform it into a microscope.
3D Printed Pocket Microscope: What do you Need?
Believe it or not, you don’t need much to construct a functional pocket-sized microscope. Alongside your 3D printer and some PLA filament, you’ll also require an old CD drive that you can disassemble and source the primary lens from.
The maker uses a relatively ancient IDE interface CD drive, but you should be able to find the proper lens in any spare CD, DVD, or BLU-RAY player. In addition, make sure you have a pair of wire cutters and a cross-head screwdriver handy to help take your e-waste apart.
3D Printed Pocket Microscope: Putting it Together
First and foremost, you’ll have to source the lens from an old CD/DVD/BLU-RAY player, which are quite abundant and easy to obtain nowadays. Using the screwdriver, the maker behind this project carefully took apart his old CD drive, saving other parts along the way that could possibly be used for other creations in the future.
For this project, you’ll need to safely retrieve the main focus lens, which is generally held inside the centre of a carriage by fine wires and magnets. You should be able to remove the lens with a pair of wire cutters. Unsure of how well this lens would work for magnification, The-PC-Bloke was pleasantly surprised by the outcome, able to clearly see the pixels on the display of his older smartphone devices.
Once the main lens was unearthed, the maker moved onto the CAD design process, keeping in mind that he wanted something simple with pocket-sized portability. The-PC-Bloke goes into longwinded detail about his design process on his Instructables post, but we’ll go ahead and skip ahead to the fun part: 3D printing.
The model itself is split into four different pieces, each of which was 3D printed with 100 percent infill at 0.1mm layer height. Once the printing process is complete, it’s time to assemble the microscope. You’ll probably want to do a bit of post-processing with high-grit sandpaper, which will help remove stringiness and blobs, as well as sharp corners, from the microscope enclosure.
Lastly, insert the primary lens into the carriage and use some oil to ease the sliding motion and acquire a snug fit. In the project’s instructional guide, The-PC-Bloke concludes with a few test shows using the microscope (one of which you can see below), and the results are quite impressive to say the least!
Want to give your 3D printer the green thumb? Autodesk and Instructables content creator Becky Stern shares a project on how to make 3D printed light-up flowers with LED lights.
FDM desktop 3D printing has opened up a new world of possibilities when it comes to making customizable and decorative objects. By integrating LED lights, electronics, and other non-printed components, the potential to create practical or aesthetic projects with your 3D printer expands tenfold.
Becky Stern is a Brooklyn-based content creator for Autodesk and Instructables, and her last couple of projects have strived to teach CAD design while supplying ornaments to spruce up your home. We recently covered her tutorial on how to create 3D printed LED mason jar lanterns, and now she’s back with another project to adorn your surroundings with.
This project is simple, educational, and like any blossoming garden, will brighten up your day. Let’s take a look at how to create your own 3D printed LED flower.
Outside of the typical desktop 3D printing equipment and filament, here’s what else you need to sprout the seed of this project:
3D Printed Glowing Flowers: Putting it Together
Stern kicks her Instructables project off with the CAD design process, explaining how to design your own flower model. She also provides the STL files for her own version, making this first step completely optional. However, if you want to become more familiar with 3D modeling, you can follow her step-by-step process on how to grow a digital flower on this freely available CAD software.
The model is split into two different STL files, allowing you to pick and choose what color combination you want to evoke with your flower. The flower base should be 3D printed at 100 percent infill, while the pedals are printed at 20 percent infill with a concentric fill pattern.
Once your flower pedal and stem are 3D printed, it’s time to prep the LED light by clipping both legs and fitting them into the 3D printed base. Be sure to keep track of which leg is the longer one, as this will be important in the following step.
In the flower stem, there’s a slot for you to insert the battery. There’s a “+” indicator on the 3D printed model to show you which way the battery should be facing. Take the longer leg and line it up with the positive (+) side of the flower base. This should make the LED light illuminate with a white glow.
Next, you’ll insert the LED into the top of 3D printed base, resting in the small channels that are placed at the opening of the stem. Then, slide the 3D printed flower pedal over the LED and voilà, you now have a 3D printed LED flower.
The final step is optional, but definitely adds a bit of natural flair to your 3D printed flower. Stern uses a needle felting technique to create the bulb of the flower. By poking tiny holes in the fiber, you can tangle it up and create a dome-like shape to fit over the LED. This will help diffuse the light and produce a more relaxing glow.
If you want to learn more about Stern’s educational and enjoyable project, check out the full instructions on her Instructables post, as well as the step-by-step video posted below.
Are you getting ready to celebrate the Mexican holiday of Cinco de Mayo this weekend? Prep for the festivities, which usually entail endless margaritas, music, and food, with some of these Cinco de Mayo-themed 3D prints!
Today is May 5th, and while that might seem like an ordinary day to a majority of the world, it’s a cause for celebration all across Mexico, as well as in the United States and other countries. The annual holiday commemorates the Mexican Army’s victory over the French Empire in on May 5, 1862, but for many people, it has evolved into a cultural appreciation for the amazing food, drinks, and music that have come out of Mexico.
Regardless of where you and your ancestors come from, there’s no denying that Cinco de Mayo is one of the most fun holidays around, especially if you love Mexican culture and cuisine. Why not use your 3D printer to help prepare you for the long day of margaritas, tacos, nachos, and salsa music? Here are five quick and easy things you can 3D print to make your Cinco de Mayo a special.
As some of these models will come in contact with food, we highly recommend using food-safe filaments when taking on these projects.
Margarita Glass Rim Salter
What is it? Nothing says Cinco de Mayo quite like a chilled margarita with lime in a salt-rimmed glass. This 3D printable glass rim salter can do the job for you. Not only does it have the word “MARGARITAS” embedded on it, but it can also be printed in the colors of the Mexican flag!
What is it? Hailing from Mexico, the sombrero is a wide-brimmed hat that helps shield your face from the sun. Why not 3D print a miniaturized version to keep the sun away from your beer? This 3D printable Sombrero is designed to fit over your bottle and give your beverage a bit of style.
What is it? Everybody loves a good taco, and oftentimes, you’ll find the best ones come from your local taco truck. You can now 3D print your own truck capable of delivering tacos into your very hands. This 3D printable food truck doubles as a taco holder, making it easy to prepare and place your taco down onto the truck’s bed.
What is it? If you’ve never heard of Coronarita, then chances are you’ve never experienced Cinco de Mayo to its fullest. This cocktail mixes Corona beer and the classic margarita, making for a refreshingly twisted beverage for all (adults) to enjoy. With this Coronarita Holder, you can attach it to your margarita glass and hold the Corona in place, making for the ultimate drinking experience.
What is it? The best way to kick off Cinco de Mayo (besides with a Coronarita) is with a nice plate of chips and salsa. Bonus points if those chips are served on the sombrero of a 3D printed Marachi band member. He’s not big enough to hold too many tortilla chips, but what he lacks in size he makes up for with a seriously sweet mustache and guitar.
Need a safe and sleek place to store your credit cards, gift cards, and your other wallet inhabitants? This fully 3D printed Card Wallet is extremely easy to make, and has a card pusher to give you instant access to your plastic money!
Most of the projects we share at All3DP are primarily focused on 3D printing, but some of them require other components and technologies to bring the idea to life. Unfortunately, that could end up being quite a drain on your wallet, so we decided to bring you a fully 3D printed that will not only save you money, it will also store your credit cards too!
The 3D printable Card Wallet by Instructables user mdavisgtm is a simple, yet sleek design, a unique fusion of minimalistic style and functionality. The wallet uses card inserts to individually hold each card in place so they don’t slip out. It’s also equipped with a card pusher that is activated by sliding a knob on the side of the print.
Not only is this impressive design fully 3D printed, it doesn’t require any support structures, and can also be assembled in under one minute without any glue or screws.
Let’s take a closer look at how to assemble the fully 3D printed Card Wallet.
3D Printed Card Wallet: Putting it Together
The Card Wallet comes in seven individual parts, all of which can be 3D printed without support structures. The STL files are all freely available on the Instructables post that details the project.
There are four different models, but the card insets must be printed four times at a .08mm layer height. All of the other parts are printed at a .16mm layer height. You can even print a multi-colored version by switching filaments after the first couple of layers of the Top-print 1.STL.
Once you’ve finished printing the parts, the rest of the assembly process is a cinch. Take the bottom part of the wallet and stack the four Card Insert parts on top of one another. Then, snap the Card Pusher onto the designated post at the bottom of the model. Finally, slide the honeycomb-designed top into place and there you have it. Pretty easy, right?
Now that you have your 3D printed Card Wallet ready, pick your four most important cards and slide them into the slots. You now have a secure place to keep your cards without taking up too much space in your pockets. If you want, you can even tape the card wallet to the back of your phone case!
Looking forward to the release of Avengers: Infinity Wars? Why not become the most powerful villain in the Marvel universe with your own 3D printed Infinity Gauntlet.
This weekend, Marvel fans will be flocking to the theatre to see the highly anticipated superhero film Avengers: Infinity Wars. The movie puts the Avengers up against the all-powerful villain Thanos, a mad titan that has his heart set on stealing the Infinity Gems held by the Elder of the Universe, using them to destroy the team of heroes and life as we know it.
Once the six ‘Soul Gems’ are inserted into the Infinity Gauntlet, the wearer gains both omnipotence and omniscience, not exactly something you’d want an infamous supervillian to have in their possession. However, you can use your 3D printer to acquire this unprecedented power by creating your own Infinity Gauntlet.
In anticipation of Avengers: Infinity Wars, which is officially released on April 27th, a team of professional 3D designers called Do3D have unveiled a 3D printable Infinity Gauntlet. One YouTuber known as The Broken Nerd recently obtained the STL files and produced an insanely accurate version of this powerful movie prop.
Want to be the most intimidating member in the cinema this weekend? Celebrate the release of Avengers: Infinity Wars by 3D printing the Infinity Gauntlet.
3D Printed Infinity Gauntlet: Putting it Together
In order to 3D print the Infinity Gauntlet, you’ll need to purchase the STL files from Do3D. You can find the price and receive the model by contacting the design firm at [email protected] Although you’ll have to pay for the model, you can’t really put a price on such unlimited power.
Once you have 3D printed the Infinity Gauntlet at your selected scale (the bigger the better), it’s time to make this prop look like the real deal. If you want to follow The Broken Nerd’s assembly and post-processing method, you’ll need a few items:
After 3D printing the Infinity Gauntlet, The Broken Nerd coats the prop with XTC 3D, which is a high performance 3D print coating solution. Then, he goes onto spray an even coat of primer across the 3D printed prop, preparing it for painting. In order to achieve a rustic, bronzed effect, the maker uses a few layers of different colored paints. He starts with black gloss spray paint, followed with a gold/bronze spray paint. Finally, he weathers the model down by adding some black acrylic paint in certain areas.
Unfortunately, the YouTuber doesn’t go into detail on how he fused the glowing Infinity Stones into his model. However, other tutorials suggest using different colored plastic gems and LEDs to make the prop shine with galactic power as it does in the film.
If you want to learn more about the project, check out The Broken Nerd’s video below, and get ready to save (or destroy) the universe with your 3D printed Infinity Gauntlet.
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