Greenhouses are excellent ways to grow plants due to their compact nature and the fact that they can absorb and store the sun’s light as heat to keep their internal temperature higher than outside. But when it comes to adding ventilation for cooling things down, decreasing the humidity, or simply to avoid rain, most non-commercial ones still rely on someone to manually open or close the windows. This need for automation is what drove Michael Bernhard to create his own greenhouse climate regulation system.
This project relies on a Nano Every to read the ambient temperature/humidity as well as control up to six motorized windows via three L298N dual H-bridge drivers. The Nano receives commands and other data over WiFi from an accompanying ESP8266 board for wireless remote control with a mobile phone. Each of these components and their connectors were added to a custom PCB and placed within a simple wooden enclosure to keep moisture out. An LCD at the top shows pertinent information such as the time, temperature, and humidity.
The aforementioned WiFi control scheme not only allows for remote control of the windows, but also for the visualization of historical sensors data on a graph. Safety information, including errors and stored EEPROM data, can be viewed on the web application, too.
For those of us of a certain age, RuneScape provides a deep sense of nostalgia. The original RuneScape MMORPG died off in popularity many years ago, but Old School RuneScape, which launched in 2013, recently gained traction once again. As with most MMORPGs, Old School RuneScape gives the player a health readout in the form of hit points. Austin Blake wanted to see his character’s health in the real world and turned to Arduino to make it happen.
Blake chose to display his hit points on a heart-shaped LED array. It indicates health through both color and level. At full health, all of the LEDs light up in green. At half health, only half of the LEDs are lit and they light up in amber. The LEDs are strips of Adafruit NeoPixels and Blake controls them with an Arduino Nano Every board running the FastLED library. Those mount into a 3D-printed frame that Blake designed in Autodesk Fusion 360.
But in order to light up the heart accurately, Blake needed a way to pull his character’s hit point count from the game and send it to the Arduino. First he tried using image recognition, but that proved to be too complex. Then he found RuneLite, which is a third party Old School RuneScape client built on Java that allows for some customization. Blake coded a script that would print his hit points in the game chat every time they changed. At the same time, it sends the numerical value over the serial connection to the Arduino, which in turn displays it graphically on the LED array.
The Magna Doodle is a classic children’s toy that works by embedding a layer of iron shavings just below the surface of a canvas and then using a magnetic pen to pull them up, thus showing whatever lines might have been drawn. Steve Turner had the idea to automate this drawing process by converting his Magna Doodle into a clock for displaying the current time in almost any TrueType font.
To begin, Turner created a simple wooden frame with several cut slots for its three NEMA17 stepper motors, the electronics housing, and the Magna Doodle itself. At the bottom of the frame sits a timing belt loop that, when pulled in one direction by the stepper motor’s pulley, drags the erasing head in order to reset the canvas for the next drawing cycle. Meanwhile, the top has a pair of stepper motors arranged in a SCARA design, which uses a couple of arms joined at a single point to move the magnetic head over the area.
Driving this combination of stepper motors is a Nano Every board that sends movement commands to a set of three TMC2130 stepper motor drivers and a micro servo. When the device draws a number, the Arduino reads the font file from an SD card and plots it according to the time given by a DS3231 RTC module.
The flux capacitor is one of the most iconic movie props of all time. Part of that is due to its plot purpose in the Back to the Future franchise, but its fame is also because it looked so futuristic when the first movie hit theaters in 1985. LEDs were still relatively new in the public consciousness at the time and the animated LED effects in the prop flux capacitor were attention getting. If you want to reproduce that effect, element14 Presents’ Derek Brodeur has a video showing you have to drive flux capacitor-style LEDs with an Arduino.
The experienced among you know that this effect is possible to achieve with discrete components, which is likely how the original prop worked. But it is easier to reproduce the “animation” using a modern microcontroller like the Microchip ATmega4809 found on the Nano Every board. By driving each LED via PWM (pulse-width modulation), you can control its brightness. PWM works by very quickly modulating power to LED, with proportion of “on” time resulting in perceived brightness.
In order to produce the trailing effect seen on the flux capacitor, Brodeur explains how to write a sketch with a loop that fades the LEDs in, keeps them at max brightness, and then fades them out again in sequence. Unlike with discrete components, the Arduino makes it easy to control the timing of each step in the animation. The rest of the tutorial focuses on constructing the flux capacitor using common supplies so that it looks close to the original prop. It isn’t an exact replica, but it is close enough that everyone will immediately recognize it for what it is.
The flux capacitor is one of the most iconic movie props of all time. Part of that is due to its plot purpose in the Back to the Future franchise, but its fame is also because it looked so futuristic when the first movie hit theaters in 1985. LEDs were still relatively new in the public consciousness at the time and the animated LED effects in the prop flux capacitor were attention getting. If you want to reproduce that effect, element14 Presents’ Derek Brodeur has a video showing you have to drive flux capacitor-style LEDs with an Arduino.
The experienced among you know that this effect is possible to achieve with discrete components, which is likely how the original prop worked. But it is easier to reproduce the “animation” using a modern microcontroller like the Microchip ATmega4809 found on the Nano Every board. By driving each LED via PWM (pulse-width modulation), you can control its brightness. PWM works by very quickly modulating power to LED, with proportion of “on” time resulting in perceived brightness.
In order to produce the trailing effect seen on the flux capacitor, Brodeur explains how to write a sketch with a loop that fades the LEDs in, keeps them at max brightness, and then fades them out again in sequence. Unlike with discrete components, the Arduino makes it easy to control the timing of each step in the animation. The rest of the tutorial focuses on constructing the flux capacitor using common supplies so that it looks close to the original prop. It isn’t an exact replica, but it is close enough that everyone will immediately recognize it for what it is.
The humble lamp can come in many different forms, but nearly all of them feature a singular bulb that is uninspired and only responds to a light switch or potentially an app. YouTuber Tom Ouwerkerk, on the other hand, has designed a creative light accessory that is entirely 3D-printed and includes an intelligent central bulb that “magically” levitates above the base, defying gravity.
For the base of the lamp, Ouwerkerk printed a simple ring with a cutout on its side for plugging in a DC barrel jack. From there, he added an Arduino Nano Every that is responsible for controlling a strip of four WS2812B RGB LEDs and sensing if the bulb has been placed into its off position. When the bulb isn’t resting on top of the base, its top magnet gets attracted to the other magnet, which faces down from the top of the lamp and helps pull it upwards for the floating effect.
As seen in Ouwerkerk’s demo video below, the lamp produces a wide range of diffused colors while appearing as an elegant display piece. You can read more about this project and check out its design files on Instructables.
Back in April 2021, Instructables user saulemmetquinn had the idea to build a fully 3D-printed clock that was based on the Triangulum constellation, which as the name implies, is a triangle. But it wouldn’t only tell the time using the typical set of hands and numbers, but also the current phase of the moon to stick with the astronomical theme.
To begin, Saul made a detailed mechanical model in CAD, complete with every facet and gear necessary for it to run. In short, the clock contains a spinning stepper motor that completes one rotation every 15 seconds (a ratio of 1:15). When combined with a series of reduction gears, this rate slows all the way down to 1:43200 for a single hour. In addition to the second, minute, and hour hands, an extra set of gears were added with a collective ratio of 99:2924 that keep track of the current moon phase.
After carefully assembling the clock by hand after printing each part, the ubiquitous ULN2003 stepper motor driver and 5V 28BYJ-48 were added to an inner panel along with an Arduino Nano Every. This board was selected due to its small size and larger memory footprint, which made running the Holo Clock firmware simple.
To read more about this project, you can visit Saul’s write-up here on Instructables.
Working with electronics requires access to stable power in a variety of voltages. Some components require 3.3V and others require 5V. Still others need 9V or 12V — there are many possibilities. You could keep a variety of wall warts on hand, but a variable benchtop power supply is a more convenient option. Supplino is one choice and this guide from Giovanni Bernardo and Paolo Loberto will walk you through how to build one.
Supplino can accept anything from 4 to 40 volts and can output anything from 1.25 to 36 volts, with a maximum of 5A. An XH-M401 module with an XL4016E1 DC-DC buck converter handles the voltage regulation. Technically, you could use that alone to power your components. But the addition of an Arduino Nano board (or Nano Every) makes the experience far friendlier. It monitors the power supply output and drives a 1.8″ 128×160 TFT LCD screen, which displays the present voltage, amperage, and wattage.
The Arduino receives power from a second 5V buck converter. It uses a relay to control power going to the primary buck converter. A relocated potentiometer controls the voltage. Two banana plug socket make it easy to attach alligator clips or whatever other leads your project requires. You can wrap up all of these components in a tidy and attractive 3D-printed enclosure, which is compact and fits on any desktop. You have many options for the input power, but a laptop power supply is a good choice.
Working with electronics requires access to stable power in a variety of voltages. Some components require 3.3V and others require 5V. Still others need 9V or 12V — there are many possibilities. You could keep a variety of wall warts on hand, but a variable benchtop power supply is a more convenient option. Supplino is one choice and this guide from Giovanni Bernardo and Paolo Loberto will walk you through how to build one.
Supplino can accept anything from 4 to 40 volts and can output anything from 1.25 to 36 volts, with a maximum of 5A. An XH-M401 module with an XL4016E1 DC-DC buck converter handles the voltage regulation. Technically, you could use that alone to power your components. But the addition of an Arduino Nano board (or Nano Every) makes the experience far friendlier. It monitors the power supply output and drives a 1.8″ 128×160 TFT LCD screen, which displays the present voltage, amperage, and wattage.
The Arduino receives power from a second 5V buck converter. It uses a relay to control power going to the primary buck converter. A relocated potentiometer controls the voltage. Two banana plug socket make it easy to attach alligator clips or whatever other leads your project requires. You can wrap up all of these components in a tidy and attractive 3D-printed enclosure, which is compact and fits on any desktop. You have many options for the input power, but a laptop power supply is a good choice.
Working with electronics requires access to stable power in a variety of voltages. Some components require 3.3V and others require 5V. Still others need 9V or 12V — there are many possibilities. You could keep a variety of wall warts on hand, but a variable benchtop power supply is a more convenient option. Supplino is one choice and this guide from Giovanni Bernardo and Paolo Loberto will walk you through how to build one.
Supplino can accept anything from 4 to 40 volts and can output anything from 1.25 to 36 volts, with a maximum of 5A. An XH-M401 module with an XL4016E1 DC-DC buck converter handles the voltage regulation. Technically, you could use that alone to power your components. But the addition of an Arduino Nano board (or Nano Every) makes the experience far friendlier. It monitors the power supply output and drives a 1.8″ 128×160 TFT LCD screen, which displays the present voltage, amperage, and wattage.
The Arduino receives power from a second 5V buck converter. It uses a relay to control power going to the primary buck converter. A relocated potentiometer controls the voltage. Two banana plug socket make it easy to attach alligator clips or whatever other leads your project requires. You can wrap up all of these components in a tidy and attractive 3D-printed enclosure, which is compact and fits on any desktop. You have many options for the input power, but a laptop power supply is a good choice.
Working with electronics requires access to stable power in a variety of voltages. Some components require 3.3V and others require 5V. Still others need 9V or 12V — there are many possibilities. You could keep a variety of wall warts on hand, but a variable benchtop power supply is a more convenient option. Supplino is one choice and this guide from Giovanni Bernardo and Paolo Loberto will walk you through how to build one.
Supplino can accept anything from 4 to 40 volts and can output anything from 1.25 to 36 volts, with a maximum of 5A. An XH-M401 module with an XL4016E1 DC-DC buck converter handles the voltage regulation. Technically, you could use that alone to power your components. But the addition of an Arduino Nano board (or Nano Every) makes the experience far friendlier. It monitors the power supply output and drives a 1.8″ 128×160 TFT LCD screen, which displays the present voltage, amperage, and wattage.
The Arduino receives power from a second 5V buck converter. It uses a relay to control power going to the primary buck converter. A relocated potentiometer controls the voltage. Two banana plug socket make it easy to attach alligator clips or whatever other leads your project requires. You can wrap up all of these components in a tidy and attractive 3D-printed enclosure, which is compact and fits on any desktop. You have many options for the input power, but a laptop power supply is a good choice.
We’ve not released a time travel shield for Arduino yet. But when we do, this Eye of Agamotto project will be a perfect fit. So even though it may not bend time yet, it does everything else we’ve seen in Doctor Strange.
Eye of Arduino. Er… Agamotto
Just in case you’re not up to speed with the events of the Marvel universe (or have totally lost track of them), the Eye of Agamotto is a magical device worn by the Sorcerer Supreme. Currently, that’s Doctor Stephen Strange.
Maker Bradley Campbell is in the running to become the next Sorcerer Supreme. To get himself in the running, he’s built his own Eye of Agamotto using an Arduino Nano Every.
The housing of the prop is mostly 3D printed. It features a working “eye” mechanism, that’s opened and closed by a servo motor and printed, beveled gears. It’s a slick design, that creates the perfect housing for the bright, RGB LED mounted inside. A diffuser then gives it the appropriate infinity stone vibe.
Although his Eye of Agamotto prop is a pretty small piece, and is worn around the neck, all the electronics are built into the medallion itself. It’s a great example of a compact build. A small, low profile Li-Po battery on the back to drive the servo and LED. An equally slim combo of a charging module and DC-to-DC converter keep the lights on, and the power constant.
Like all good prop makers, he doesn’t just show us how to put the electronics together. There are some excellent tips on finishing the 3D printed parts, painting them, and adding texture. The weathering is essential to giving the medallion an ancient gold finish, and bringing the prop to life.
All in all, including spray paint (and excluding the 3D printer), the cost of Bradley’s prop runs to around $150.
Take a look at Bradley’s full build over on Instructables.
While thinking of an interesting project to create, Hackster user marcaubin started to imagine an audio spectrum visualizer, but not a traditional one that has a matrix of LEDs with columns corresponding to certain frequencies. Instead, his device would have just a single vertical NeoPixel strip featuring 29 LEDs in total, with the bottom ones displaying the lower frequencies while the top pixels would indicate the higher frequencies.
He built a small box that houses a few components, including an Arduino Nano Every for taking in sound data and controlling the LED strip, a jack for plugging in a sound source, and a series of potentiometers for carefully adjusting certain variables. Two of those potentiometers can change the color range of the LEDs, as the possible range of colors get divided amongst the pixels in between the two ends. There is a way to change both the saturation and max brightness of the LEDs as well.
Marcaubin’s code continuously reads values coming in from the audio jack and performs a Fast-Fourier Transformation (FFT) on the data which causes the resulting frequency bands and their corresponding amplitudes to be outputted. From there, the values of the potentiometers are combined in certain ways to produce a very nice-looking array of colors along the LED strip. As a certain frequency gets louder, the LED within the column will get brighter, and vice-versa for quieter amplitudes.
Extending a mobile AC unit’s exhaust duct with an air extractor
Arduino Team — June 4th, 2021
Portable air conditioners are amazing, especially as we head into the hot summer months. But one big downside is having to place them close to a window that will fit the guard, otherwise it’s really tough getting the hot exhaust air out of the room. This is exactly the problem Hackaday user vincentmakes ran into when he set up a mobile AC unit, as his window was the wrong shape. To solve it, he created a little system that allows the AC unit to be plugged in on one side and then match its air flow to shoot hot air out of the window.
It measures the current draw of the air conditioner by using a Hall effect sensor and then correlating the resulting value with a target air speed. When the AC is off, the extractor cuts power to its fan, but otherwise will try to adjust the fan speed while the AC is on. Vincent designed a custom PCB for the project around an Arduino Nano Every for control and interfacing with the Hall sensor and a pair of relays. After some fine-tuning of the fan curves, the air extractor worked great for extending the reach of the AC’s exhaust, thus letting it escape outside.
MIDI-controlled instruments are awesome, as custom sounds can be loaded and dynamically changed while you play. However, accessing these effects often requires an external controller that can get expensive and complicated. That is why music enthusiast Joe King created the Stryde, which is a fully integrated MIDI preset loader within a small enclosure. Stryde uses an Arduino Nano Every at its core to store presets, display information, and select effects.
As seen in King’s video below, the Nano Every has room for up to 128 total presets that can be scroll through with the help of a pair of buttons. There is also the ability to use a MIDI pedal as an input to switch which presets are currently active. The back of the Stryde contains a single port for MIDI IN and two ports for MIDI OUT with DIN connectors. Even though the device has plenty of connectivity, the best feature is probably the fact that it is open source, therefore letting users completely rewrite the firmware if they want.
As spotted on Reddit, the Light Based Optical Productivity Enhancement System (LOPES) is an Arduino Nano Every-powered device that lights up depending on the tasks that you have left to complete. The Nano takes input from five copper touch sensor plates on the top, which enable you to add or remove jobs of different priorities.
Display is via addressable LEDs diffused by a tube, and importance is ranked as either green, yellow or red. As of now, it simply shows how much you have to do without specifics, however, its creator plans to eventually make an app to allow for further interface with a phone.
Dries Depoorter’s installation displays real-time sunsets and sunrises via unsecured CCTV cameras
Arduino Team — August 19th, 2020
Sunrises can be beautiful, not to mention sunsets, but seeing both at one time would seem to be an impossibility. Dries Depoorter, however, has developed an installation that displays the two events as they happen on side-by-side screens, using footage sourced via unsecured CCTV cameras.
Depoorter’s “24h Sunrise/Sunset” project uses a pair of Raspberry Pi 3Bs to show the images, and send time and location data to an Arduino Nano Every over serial. The Nano Every then reveals this info on four VFD displays on the console, giving onlookers a frame of reference.
24h Sunrise/Sunset is on exhibit at the “Window of the World” art festival in St. Moritz, Switzerland until October 18th, 2020.
Dave Darko designs a 16-button keep-alive switch with a Nano Every
Arduino Team — July 29th, 2020
It’s generally not advisable to leave equipment running when unattended. As a safeguard against this possibility at hackerspaces and elsewhere, element14 Presents’ Dave Darko built a custom switch that requires users to intermittently push a button in order to produce additional ‘on’ time.
The trick here is that instead of having one keep-alive button, the unit has a matrix of 16 buttons that light up randomly to be pressed. The idea is to prevent someone from setting up a second device to simply poke the same key over and over.
The ‘unhackable’ switch, which resembles a MIDI sequencer input, runs on an Arduino Nano Every and uses a relay to directly control the power state. It’s demonstrated toward the end of the video below, where Darko plays a sort of simple button-based game to keep an LED fixture on.
The wearable device, which went on to place in the state competition, uses a transparent OLED display to show info from Retro Watch software running on an Android phone. They’re controlled by an Arduino Nano Every with an HC-05 Bluetooth module to communicate with the mobile app. Power is provided via a LiPo battery.
One unusual feature is that the darkened lenses can be flipped down for sun protection in outdoor environments, then up to allow easy viewing in darker areas. Kapadia demonstrates how his glasses work, plus discusses the technology used in the video below.
The original Arduino Nano occupies a special place in many makers’ hearts. The tiny footprint (48×18 mm – around half a stick of gum), reliability and tons of examples makes the Nano perfect for wearables, drones — in fact any project made to last.
The Nano is back! The new entry-level Arduino Nano Every manages to pack in even more features at an even lower price — just $9.90 / €8.00 without headers — and is backwards compatible with the original. Dario Pennisi led the development of the board, so we sat down with him to learn more.
Why did you decide to create the Arduino Nano Every?
The size of Arduino Nano Every makes it ideal for wearable projects; in experiments, in prototypes or in a full cosplay setup! Sensors and motors can be connected without too much fuss which means it’s great for robotics, drones and 3D printing too.
Searching for “Arduino Nano project” returns millions of results for the original. But you also find people complaining about boards not working. Of course those boards are usually clones – not genuine Arduino boards! Clones can have reliability issues which mean you need to pay for more, or are frustrated trying to get them to work.
So this is why we made the Arduino Nano Every. It’s reliable, affordable and more powerful. The newer ATmega4809 microcontroller fixes limitations of older ATmega328p based boards – you can add a second hardware serial port! More peripherals and memory means you can tackle more ambitious projects. The Configurable Custom Logic (CCL) is a great way to get beginners more interested in hardware. We’ve used a quality USB chip so people won’t have connection or driver issues. The separate processor handling the USB interface also makes it possible to implement different USB classes such as Human Interface Device (HID) instead of just the classic CDC/UART.
So not only is it a great choice for makers – in buying a genuine Arduino they will be supporting us in continuing to contribute to open source for the whole community to benefit from.
Can you tell us the three key features of Nano Every?
New processor with more memory and new peripherals, still 5V capable. The added memory will unleash creativity and open to more complex applications and the new peripheral set, which includes a second serial port, will finally allow communicating at the same time with a PC and with peripherals such as a wireless interface or a GPS.
The new power supply architecture based on a high efficiency DC-DC converter allows powering the board at up to 21V and to drive output peripherals with up to 950mA without overheating
Castellated contacts and flush bottom side allow soldering the Nano Every directly on a board as a traditional SMT component, opening the possibility to reduce final product size and helping the use in volume applications
So the processor is the same as the Uno WiFi R2 and it has more Flash and more RAM. The sketches made for the Nano are going to run on the Every as they are? Is it truly a replacement with zero modification in any Nano based project? Please elaborate.
Actually the ATmega4809 we use on Uno WiFi R2 and Nano Every is not directly compatible with ATmega328p, however we’ve implemented a compatibility layer which translates low level register writes without any overhead so the result is that most libraries and sketches, even those accessing directly GPIO registers, will work out of the box
Why you decided to offer the board with no headers supplied or soldered in the basic package?
Not only are new Nano boards are offered without headers, they all are totally flat on the bottom side and offer castellated pads on the sides, so you can actually solder them on your PCB as a standard SMT component using a normal pick & place machine.
The price is really aggressive, did you compromise on Arduino quality standards to achieve this?
We’ll never give up on Arduino quality standards and we’re still manufacturing in Italy making sure that our ethical values are strictly followed. The lower price point on these products has been achieved thanks to a careful optimization on purchasing prices and by trimming our margins as we believe that it’s important to give makers the quality they deserve at competitive prices.
The Arduino Nano Every is now available for pre-order on the Arduino online store with headers (estimate shipping date: end of July 2019) or without headers mounted (estimated shipping date: mid-June 2019).
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