Schlagwort: 3D Printing Projects

  • Weekend Project: 3D Print a Bloody or Stitched Neck for Your Halloween Costume

    Weekend Project: 3D Print a Bloody or Stitched Neck for Your Halloween Costume

    Reading Time: 4 minutes

    Add some fright to your spine-chilling costume with this collection of Halloween-themed 3D printed jewelry, which includes a stitched neck and dripping bloody neck. 

    Do you need to add some extra dread to your undead aesthetic? One Instructables user who goes by the name of Penolopy Bulnick has recently shared a collection of 3D printed Halloween jewelry that will complement the most terrifying of costumes. Her latest designs include a dripping bloody neck, as well as a stitched neck and wrists.

    This collection of Halloween-themed accessories are easy to make and actually look pretty realistic, making them ideal for anyone planning to go to dress up as a zombie, vampire, or Frankenstein for an upcoming costume party. The designer has shared a handful of 3D printable models that vary in size and thickness, as well as the Tinkercad files so you can customize them yourself.

    With just a few affordable jewelry pieces and these 3D printed effects, you can attach dripping blood or stitches directly to your throat. Let your friends stare in horror as you parade your gory trinkets around the neighborhood. Let’s take a look at how you can 3D print your own creepy jewelry for the haunted holiday ahead.

    Also, be sure to check out our other Halloween-themed Weekend Projects for more ideas:


    3D Printed Halloween Jewelry: What You Need & How to Build it

    You can find the STL files for the stitched neck and dripping bloody neck on the designer’s Instructables post. There, she also goes over the design process for both pieces, explaining how she created them on Tinkercad.

    The supply list needed to create this jewelry collection is quite short. You can either use red and black filament (Penolopy Bulnick recommends Iron Red and Black from Hatchbox3D) or spray paint once the print is complete. Aside from your 3D printer and filament, here’s what else you need to make your own bloody or stitched neck:


    Since these designs are so thin, you don’t really need flexible filament to wear them. However, if you want to print a thicker version or improve the comfort a bit, a flexible material like TPU might be worth investing in. Otherwise, when loading these models into your 3D printing slicer software, double check them to make sure they aren’t too thick. If you decide to print the thicker version of the bloody neck with regular filament, the band of the design should only be two layers high.

    The next step is dependent on what color filament you’re using. If you’ve already got the right color extruding out of your nozzle, there’s no need to worry about spray painting. For those who don’t have any red or black filament, or want to use paint to enhance the gruesomeness of the jewelry, you can just color the side of the print that will be on display. The designer uses a sealer after painting to give her slit neck a more glossy effect.

    Next, add the jump rings to the corners of the print, followed by the clasp and necklace chain. Both the bloody neck and stitches are designed to be worn as a choker, so make sure the chain is long enough, but not too long. And that’s about all it takes to add some terrifying jewelry to your Halloween costume!

    If you don’t have a 3D printer, you can also visit the designer’s Etsy shop and purchase the Halloween-themed jewelry for $7.


    License: The text of „Weekend Project: 3D Print a Bloody or Stitched Neck for Your Halloween Costume“ by All3DP is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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  • Weekend Project: 3D Print a Creepy-Crawling Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer

    Weekend Project: 3D Print a Creepy-Crawling Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer

    Reading Time: 3 minutes

    Need to prepare decorations for Halloween? We’ve got you covered with this spooky 3D printed Pumpkin Spider Transformer designed by William Bruning.

    The spookiest day of the year is just weeks away… Why buy your decorations when you can make them on your 3D printer? To get you prepared for the ghouls, ghosts, and trick-or-treaters that are coming to your door this Halloween, All3DP will share a handful of fun and frightening weekend projects to keep you and your 3D printer busy.

    And what better creature to mark the upcoming holiday than a Pumpkin Spider Transformer (yes, you read that correctly). Designed by New Zealand-based maker William Bruning, this 3D print can appear as a plain old pumpkin at one instance, but can suddenly transform itself into a creepy spider in the blink of an eye.

    We stumbled across this eight-legged print on Thingiverse, where it’s currently being featured on the front page. The creator even made a short animation video with his creation, which you can watch below.

    This isn’t one of those difficult projects that require soldering, various electronics, or anything that might scare away a 3D printing novice. In fact, the Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer is fully 3D printed, making it an easy way to spruce up this year’s decorations. Let’s take a peek at how to print and put together this creepy-crawling project.

    Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer: What You Need & How to Build

    The STL files for the Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer are freely available on Thingiverse. The model is comprised of seven different parts (six if you attempt to print the chest in one piece). Bruning recommends using support structures, a 10 percent infill, and a .15mm resolution.

    As for colors, you’ll probably want the outside of the pumpkin to be orange, which you can either achieve via colored filament or (preferably) spray paint. Once the parts are finished and the supports are removed, it’s time for the assembly process.

    First, put a bit of superglue on the base of the ball joint in the middle of the chest to strengthen the connection. Next, push the leg ball joints into the chest socket. According to the designer, the assembly may be a bit tight, but there shouldn’t be any issues that end up breaking the part. After that, click the other end into the slices of pumpkin to finish the leg section. Lastly, connect the head to the body via the two neck joints.

    In order to make it look like a spider, move the head to the front. To disguise it as a pumpkin, movie the head down until its fit snugly into the middle of the model. And that’s about all it takes to make your own Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer!



    License: The text of „Weekend Project: 3D Print a Creepy-Crawling Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer“ by All3DP is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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  • Weekend Project: Tell Scary Tales Over This 3D Printed Tea Light Ghost

    Weekend Project: Tell Scary Tales Over This 3D Printed Tea Light Ghost

    Reading Time: 3 minutes

    Want to make your Halloween decorations more cheerful this year? This 3D printed Tea Light Ghost will make a happy addition to your seasonal adornments, greeting all of the trick-or-treaters with a smile. 

    Halloween is a time for haunted houses, elaborate costumes and frightening amounts of candy, but not every decoration has to scare you out of your socks. Why not lighten up the mood with a friendly-looking 3D printed Tea Light Ghost lamp, designed by maker Greg Zumwalt.

    This grinning ghost is equipped with a base for a LED tealight candle, which emits light throughout the model and creates a subtle lamp effect. It’s the perfect addition to a house that is haunted with smiles rather than spookiness. It’s easy to print and doesn’t require much time to make, making it an ideal project for beginners or makers looking for a quick way to add some Halloween ornaments to their seasonal display.

    If you want to consider a different approach to this project, you can also check out Zumwalt’s Illuminated Happy Ghost Lamp on Instructables. Otherwise, let’s take a quick look at how to conjure up the spirit of your own 3D printed Tea Light Ghost.

    Illuminated Happy Ghost: What You Need & How to Build it

    The files for this 3D printed ghost lamp are available to download via Thingiverse. There are two versions of the ghost – one for single extrusion and another for dual extruder 3D printers. The ghost itself can either be printed as one piece or with the eyes and mouth separately.

    Aside from your 3D printer and some filament, you’ll also need LED tealight candles (37.5mm in diameter), which act as the base of the lamp. You can find them at a local hardware store or order them on Amazon. Zumwalt suggests printing the parts with a 20 percent infill, no support structures necessary.

    There’s no assembly process with the dual extrusion version; simply print it out and insert the tealight candle at the base. If you opt for the single extruder model, you’ll need to apply some thick cyanoacrylate glue to attach the right eye, left eye, and mouth. While mounting the eyes, you can insert your pinky finger through the mouth hole for support. When attaching the mouth, go through the bottom base to secure the ghost’s wide smile.


    The final step is simple. Just press the tealight candle into the base of the ghost and turn it on. Now you have giddy decoration to lighten the spooky Halloween mood.

    This project is easy to create and doesn’t take too much time or effort, so feel free to make a collection and have yourself a friendly ghost party!


    License: The text of „Weekend Project: Tell Scary Tales Over This 3D Printed Tea Light Ghost“ by All3DP is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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  • A Quick and Easy 3D Printable Valentine’s Gift

    A Quick and Easy 3D Printable Valentine’s Gift

    Reading Time: 13 minutes

    Valentine’s day is approaching fast. If you are still looking for a last-minute, yet creative gift, don’t despair! We might just have the solution for you: a 3D printable Valentine’s gift in the form of a heart-shaped bookmark. 

    More…

    As we know only too well, CAD modeling can be daunting, especially if you are a complete novice in the field. That’s why for this tutorial we have decided to team up with the guys at Shapr3D, a CAD software which is easy to learn, easy to use, but that still meets professional standards. And it is perfect for 3D printing projects.

    In order to show you how easy it can be to get started with your first project, Daniel Rosner from Shapr3D wrote this step-by-step guide to create a heart-shaped bookmark, which you can print for your special someone. Like this, you will learn how to model a file and, at the end, you will have a personalized gift for Valentine’s day – how awesome is that?


    Shapr3D main page

    Main page of Shapr3D © Shapr3D

    As we know that step-by-step guides can sometimes be a bit boring, we also made you a step-by-step movie, which explains in less than 5 minutes how to design your heart-shaped bookmark. Have a look for yourself:

    If you wish to skip the tutorial and just download the heart-shaped bookmark in order to print it, have a look at the end of this article.

    So, without further ado, here is the tutorial on the basics of 3D modeling with Shapr3D. Fire away Daniel:

    Basics of 3D modeling: Creating a bookmark with Shapr 3D

    This blog post will walk you through the very basics of creating print-ready 3D designs in Shapr3D, a professional 3D modeling tool, and will show you how to print those designs the easiest way. Since Valentine’s day 2017 is on the horizon, we wanted to show you how to design a simple object that fits the occasion. We found the inspiration for the bookmark on Thingiverse, as we were looking for a basic but interesting object, i.e. a perfect fit for a beginners tutorial. Have fun learning.

    More…

    We used the following tools to create the bookmark:

    • iPad Pro
    • Apple pencil
    • Shapr3D (CAD software – runs on the iPad Pro)
    • Craftbot (3D printer)
    • Craftware (the slicer software that comes with the Craftbot 3D printer)

    iPad Pro, Apple Pencil © Apple Inc. – Craftbot 3D printer © 3dprintingforbeginners.com

    A. The basic concepts

    Before we jump into the design work, there are two important lessons we would like you to understand. These lessons will actually shape the way you think, when you approach a design work. Although it might make everything a tad more difficult in the beginning, but it will definitely pay its dividends in the long run.

    1. Always go from 2D to 3D

    3D modeling always starts with a 2D sketch. Your sketch should be as simple as possible. This basic rule of thumb will help you get started even when you’re faced with a formidable object, like a turbine. (A turbine is, after all, just a combination of curved lines on top of a circle). This will also give you a bigger freedom when you start adjusting your object.

    2. Make sure you understand your goals and the specifics

    Before drawing anything, you should have a detailed look at the object you want to create. Do you know the size of your object, the width, the height and the length? Make sure you have these basics under control before you jump into anything.

    We made your life easier and have the calculations for the bookmark ready. Our heart will be made up of 2 arcs and 2 lines connected to them. Here are the parameters:

    • Total length: 50mm
    • Total width: 50mm
    • Height: 3mm
    • ​Total width: 50mm
    • ​Arc radius: 12,5 mm
    • Big circle width: 1,5mm
    • Scale of the smaller circle in comparison of the bigger one: 0,8mm

    Heartshape bookmark measurements

    Heart-shaped bookmar parameters © Shapr3D

    B. Modeling the bookmark

    There are multiple tools you can use for 3D modeling, ranging from beginner-level software (e.g. TinkerCAD) to professional ones (Shapr3D, Fusion360, Rhino3D). There’s usually quite a price range difference between these as well. We chose Shapr3D, because it runs on a freemium model, allowing for a medium quality STL file export for 3D printing, free of charge. And it also has one of the best sketching tools on the market right now. The flip side that currently it only works on iPad Pro with Apple Pencil.

    Create your workspace

    Creating a workspace will help you keep your sketches clean and transparent, while it gives you guidelines on how to work precisely. This is not an essential step in the design process, but creating the workspace makes modeling much easier.

    1. Select the view

    Selecting the proper view is extremely important. You can go to a plain by either double tapping or by opening the View menu in the top right corner and selecting the Top Camera. The later solution is the better one, as it will put the origo (the point of origin, i.e. the coordinates 0,0,0 of the X,Y and Z axes in the Cartesian coordinate system) in the middle, giving you a pleasant and transparent workspace.


    Shapr3D - selecting your view

    View selection © Shapr3D

    2. Select millimeters as units

    The bookmark is measured in millimeters, so we should go ahead and make sure our sketch has this unit setting as well. You can reach the Units Settings by clicking on the „hamburger icon“ at the bottom right corner. Select Millimeters.


    Shapr3D unit selection

    Selecting units © Shapr3d

    3. Create a 50×50 mm square

    Creating the 50×50 workspace is an easy practice before we get into the more serious modeling. Draw a 25mm line on the blue axis (X), then draw a 25 mm line perpendicular to it. This will give you your first corner and help you center the square at the origo. Now you only have to draw four 50 mm long perpendicular lines to create the square. Once you are done, you can delete the two, 25 mm guidelines and lock the square with the Lock icon in the Constraint menu.


    Square creation in Shapr3D

    Creating a workspace © Shapr3D

    Creating the hearts

    1. Create the arc, starting 15mm from the origo

    Create a 15 mm long guideline starting from the origo. Lock this point and start creating the arc from the fixed point. You can create an arc easily by making an arc-like movement with your pencil. You can switch between drawing a straight line and an arc/circle by wiggling (shaking) your pencil while keeping contact with the pencil and the iPad Pro (see pic below).


    Setting an Arc in Shapr3D

    Creating the arc © Shapr3D

    2. Specify the arc: control points and radius

    Since we have the precise parameters, we should start using them. Click on the arc, and then click on the number showing how long it is. Set this number to 12,5 mm – this will automatically give it a Length Constraint.

    Constraints are geometric rules that tell sketch geometry how to behave (parallel, perpendicular, horizontal, vertical, equal, concentric, etc). These constraints can be added and modified later. You can also set a constraint to length, angle or diameter.) In this case, the length constraint will give a specific value to the length of the arc (12.5 mm). So even if we modify other parts of the sketch, it will keep this value. If we don’t need a constraint anymore, we can easily delete it, by clicking on the number and unlocking them.

    You will see 3 points on the arc, two endpoints and a control point. We now know where the first endpoint is, and we will deal with the second one later. But we have to find a proper place for the control point. It is located 5 mm to the left and 3mm down from the upper right corner. You can measure the exact location (as you can see on the picture I chose this way) or you can use the grid, the results will be the same. When you’ve found the location just drag the control point there and lock it.


    Setting constraints in Shapr3D

    Setting control points and radius © Shapr3D

    3. Creating the endpoint of the arc, the line and making them tangent

    Now we have to find the second endpoint’s place. It will be defined by the line that is tangent to it, so let’s create a that line first. Draw a line from the end arc point, and snap it to the bottom edge of our square. This will create a Coincidence Constraint, the line will stick to the chosen edge.

    When selecting both the arc and the created line, you will see a degree number popping up. Modify it to 180 degrees, and drag the free end of the line to the middle point of the bottom edge (either by using the grid or measuring it: 25 mm from either of the bottom corners).


    Shapr3D endpoints

    Setting endpoints and line © Shapr3D

    4. Repeat this on the other side

    You just have to repeat the 3 steps mentioned above on the other side of the square. Make sure the two parts are sharing the two points in the middle.


    Full Heart

    Creating the heart shape © Shapr3D

    Alternative techniques

    If you feel comfortable with 3D modeling you can try the following, a bit more advanced technics, which will be much easier to use in the long run. If you click on Transform you’ll see 4 different options that helps you move, rotate, scale your objects. We are going to use two of these to create the full heart.

    Mirror&Copy

    You can mirror 2D and 3D objects as well, but you’ll always need a 3D plain to do this. First create the plain in the middle section by connecting the middle points of the two horizontal edges. Then click on the line and extrude it, by dragging it upwards. Click on the Mirror tool, select your object, select your plain, click Copy Yes and then the OK button.


    Mirror and copy in Shapr3D

    Rotate&Copy

    Rotating is even less time consuming. You only need an axis, rather than a plain. Click on the Rotate tool. Select your object, select the axis of rotation, Copy YES and lastly the angle of rotation (180 degrees)


    5. Making the heart curve into a heart surface, with the offset tool

    You can easily turn these curves into the desired surface by offsetting them. Find the Offset tool in the Tool Menu, select it, and then follow the instructions on the screen. First select the curve to offset, and then select the rate of the offset. It should be 1,5. It will create a slightly smaller heart (1,5 points smaller) than the original one. This will be the thickness of the outside heart eventually.


    Shapr3D - offset

    Offset function © Shapr3D

    6. Copying and scaling the heart

    We have to create the smaller heart in the middle as well. Since the two hearts look the same, we can easily copy and scale down our originally created heart. For this, go to Transform/Freeform, then select all the curves. Tap on Copy/Yes and by moving your Pencil scale it to a 0,8 rate version of the heart. This will make a smaller copy of our heart.


    Freeform and transform in Shapr3D

    Transform function © Shapr3D

    7. Adjusting the two hearts to each other

    You will notice that our hearts are not perfectly adjusted to each other. You can fine tune the intersections by moving the control points and snapping them together, as you can see it in the picture.


    Joining lines in Shapr3D

    Fine-tuning intersections © Shapr3D

    8. Transforming the sketch into a 3D model with the extrude tool

    Our last step is to extrude our surfaces. Select all 3 surfaces (outside and inside heart and the intersection), and extrude them by dragging them upwards. The height of the shape I chose was 3 mm, as this suited my needs. The final height is actually up to you, but choose it high enough, so that it does not break too easily.


    Extruding in Shapr3D

    Extrude tool © Shapr3D

    Conclusion

    We created the 2D sketch first and made a 3D version out of it with the extrude command. If we want to modify how the heart looks or how well the arc is bent, then we usually modify the initial sketch first, and then recreate the 3D version out of that. Modifying something in 2D first and turning it into 3D is usually much easier to do, so that’s why the quality of your sketch matters a lot.

    C. Slicing the bookmark

    Now that our 3D design is ready, we can finally start the printing process. We are using an additive printing method (layer-by-layer printing), so there is still a small step left before the actual printing. It is called slicing. Slicing is the process of transforming your 3D model (most likely from a .stl format) into a machine code (g-code), that your 3D printer can understand. A slicing program slices up your object into layers, so the machine knows exactly, where to start printing, and where to end it.

    We used the Craftbot’s own, free slicing software called Craftware. It does the job for beginners and advanced users as well. There are many other slicer options. If you’re not satisfied with Craftware, you can have a look at the slicer list on 3dprintingforbeginners.com. We downloaded the .stl file from Shapr3D, and opened it in Craftware.

    Craftware immediately showed us our object, and with one click the different options for slicing appears. First it will give you the Easy mode, but you have to switch to the Expert mode.


    Slicing options in Craftware

    text © text

    We want to set the loop count to 1 (the system originally makes this 2 loops). We do this, because the inner circle is so narrow, that if there were two loops there would be a gap between the loops it creates. See for yourself:


    2 loop print in Craftware

    With two loops © Shapr3D


    1loop print in Craftware

    Single loop © Shapr3D

    When we finalize the slicing, we should have an object that looks like this. Notice the layers, this is how the printer will print our model, layer-by-layer.


    Craftware layers

    Layers of the model © Shapr3D

    The software will also give some small statistical analysis, so you know what to expect timing and money-wise (filament usage – length). It will also estimate the percentage of travel during the printing process, which tells you how much your extrude nozzle will go without actually printing something. During these periods filament can spill out of the nozzle and create an unwanted web. Adjust the nozzle’s speed during non-printing movements to avoid this problem.


    Craftware statistics

    D. Printing the bookmark

    Before explaining the printing process we would like to give you more information on why we chose a Craftbot 3D printer, i.e. an FDM-type (Fused Deposition Modeling) 3D printer. The machine melts the filament (usually plastic), and through the extrusion nozzle builds the object layer-by-layer, while the build platform constantly moves downwards. It is the simplest method of 3D printing, as it doesnt really require a lot of post-processing. A big disadvantage of FDM is that sometimes the still modifiable, melted material easily collapses under the weight of subsequent layers. It is also not able to print with very fine details.

    The technology people usually compare FDM with is the SLA technology. This technology works differently as the object is elevated from a the melted resin bath,while it is being cured (hardened) by a focused UV light. This method results in a far better quality in terms of the fine details, but there are three big disadvantages of this technology:  (a) it requires a lot of post-processing after printing (after removing it from the printer, you have to treat it in a isopropyl bath to remove the sticky outside of your object, caused by the printing process) , (b) the process is usually slower and (c) the resins are usually a lot more expensive than FDM printer filaments.

    We chose FDM printing in the end, because our object was small (only 13 layers) and not much detailing was needed. If we were to print a complex shape, we would have used an SLA printer.

    Our friends from the FabLabBudapest were helping us with the printing by lending us one of their Craftbots. We were done with it pretty fast and easy.

    Some numbers from the print

    • Filament heat up time: 15-20 minutes
    • Printing time: 8 minutes
    • Used filament: 0.4 meters
    • Cost: 2$

    Heartshaped bookmark - endresults

    Heart-shaped bookmarks iterations © Shapr3D

    Here is our end result. As you can see from the photo above (the gray heart), our first try was far from perfect. Actually, there were a lot of mistakes in it and the first print only took a couple of days of usage before the inner heart broke. So we made a few adjustments and the model came out fine. Have a look at the photos below to see how your heart-shaped bookmark can look in the book of your special someone.

    So, there you have it: an easy way to learn how to create your first model in a CAD software. If you wish to see in detail the functions that Daniel used, please have a look at our 5 minute video of this step-by-step guide.

    E. Free download of the .STL file

    And if you don’t feel like doing this whole tutorial or lack the necessary tools, don’t worry. The guys at Shapr3D graciously put the STL file of the heart-shaped bookmark at our disposal, so that you can download it for free! You can print it or even modify it to suit your needs.

    [EDIT: we are currently having some troube with the download feature and are looking to get this fixed as soon as possible]

    What do you think of this tutorial? Did you design the heart-shaped bookmark? And did you offer it as a Valentine’s gift? Please take a moment and share your experiences and feedback by commenting below.

    Website: LINK